Rudas Gyógyfürdö

Döbrentei tér 9
Snugly nestled in the armpit of the Erzsebet bridge and a cliff wall, sitting on a highway, and protected by the righteous statue of Gellért and his effluent waterfall, the Rudas Gyógyfürdö Turkish bath don’t look like much. It’s a squat, one story, concrete job, vaguely under construction (apparently since 2003). But once inside you can occupy the heritage of the victorious ottoman conqueror at leisure.

After paying the girl in the cage about $10, you are given a digital “wristwatch” which serves as your accountant and locker key. Holding it against a series of turnstiles you finally make it into the locker room. At the locker room entry you take a loin cloth which you will fasten around your waist so that no one knows you’re circumcised. Within the locker room you hold your “wristwatch” against something that looks like a digital thermostat mounted on the wall. After a few seconds the thermostat displays you changing-room number which then opens sesame upon another wristwatch application. Your changing room is where you change and where your things are stored until you’re ready the leave.

Following signs you enter the bath proper. The main works are a large circular pool with smaller pools in the corners of the room. The central pool is warm and pleasant and the entire room stinks of the sulfur thrown up by the naturally thermal waters. At 1:30 is the hottest of the hot pools which grow colder as you go counter-clockwise. The hottest is hot, and the coldest is cold. The main pool, however, is second-hottest. Think about that.

At 3:00 are two doorways, the first leads to a dry sauna and the second to a steam sauna. Each sauna is preceded by a cold water bucket and shower stall. Each sauna is actually a series of chambers, which increase in heat as you proceed. The hottest is hot, but not as hot as those saunas in more northern climes.

The Rudas Gyógyfürdö bath is filled with old, fat, hairless, uncircumcised, square-headed Hungarian men (or women, depending on the day of the week). I only spotted one perv and he looked German. The atmosphere is relaxed and convivial, with men chatting quietly under the gurgle of thermal waters.

At 12:00 another doorway leads to a massage room, the cold plunge (cold) and the exit. At the exit you discard your loincloth into a bucket and take a clean sheet. The sheet is used as a wrap as you walk and a cover for the adjustable beds in the nap room. You deposit your used sheet at the locker room exit, and your wristwatch at the final turnstile.

Another side of the facility offers a lap pool which smelled chlorinated. There is also a juice bar and gift shop in the lobby. All in all Rudas Gyógyfürdö is good banya. It’s relaxing, casual, therapeutic and hot enough. The facilities are relatively clean and well maintained and the staff friendly. I recommend.


A note on Momotaro Ramen
Széchenyi u. 16
What do you expect the ramen in Budapest to be like? Well, you’re right. While the celery salad was interesting and there were a range Chinese dishes on the menu, if it’s a meat soup with noodles you’re craving stick with the goulash on every corner. It’s delicious.

Technology as Consciousness Extender

I have already blogged about The Third Space, a place you go when you’re on the phone with someone; someplace other than here. The Third Space is a physical space that exists in your mind, contingent on your connection with the person on the other end of the line.

In The Origin of Consciousness in the Breakdown of the Bicameral Mind, Julian Jaynes argues that a characteristic of consciousness is a similar space. He observes that conscious thought always takes place visually – as it were – within a mental space. We describe conscious thought as “looking within”, or “seeing into” another person, amongst many other turns of phrase.

However, Jaynes is very explicit in saying that consciousness is not required in speaking casually with another person. Consciousness, in Jaynes’s view, is almost rare; not being prerequisite for most of our actions or states of mind.

If we consider the space of consciousness that Jaynes describes and The Third Space as being one and the same, what does this imply? If a casual conversation does not seem to require consciousness, yet even the most casual cellphone conversant is walking into traffic, oblivious to “this” space, completely absorbed into The Third Space, does this imply that the cellphone somehow induces consciousness where otherwise there would be none?

Exactly What’s Wrong with the World


Consider the image above. It was 8:27am. The current temperature was 55 degrees farenheit. The low temperature for the day was 63 degrees. How can the day’s low temperature be higher than the current temperature? I thought and considered.

Then I found a twenty-dollar bill in a green puddle on the subway platform. It was floating, crumpled behind a kindle-zombie. I alerted her to its presence but she made negative sounds and shuffled away from it. I thought and considered. The platform puddle was revolting, connected directly to one of those dark holes in the platform wall that rats dart in and out of. I always imagine the chambers behind those holes filled to capacity with rat shit, which then oozes blackly down the wall. I toed the bill. It was real. It was a real twenty-dollar bill. I considered and thought and then picked it up by a dry corner, easing it as cleanly as possible into the back pocket of my jeans. I will wash it when I get to the office, I thought.

It was only then that it occurred to me that maybe the iPhone had out-smarted me. Maybe it was giving me the next low-point temperature of the day, meaning the low for the evening; as we had already passed the low for the morning and were steadily climbing toward high-noon. I hadn’t considered this. Could it be that the phone already so clever it had left me behind?

Your Puppy is Your Persona

Your puppy is your persona
She walks before you
She rushes at strangers’
dogs.

She jumps on their heads
and humps their legs
She sniffs their most private
bits.

You both look on,
the stranger and you,
sniffing unashamed with
delight.

But you both refrain
from looking directly
rather eye the beast and
smile.

He holds out his hand
allows you to sniff
and scratches you on your
head.

You don’t ask his name
only that of his puppy
But that may be
more than enough…

Speculation and Empowerment

Buckminster Fuller, an avid speculator, posits that the division of knowledge – the drive toward increasing “expertise” – originated as a tool of power. His speculative model goes something like this: there’s a king, right? And this king has a couple of lords in his kingdom. These lords pose a threat to the king’s hegemony. In order to thwart the threat the king gives one lord complete control of the army and the other the treasury. He meets with each lord individually to consult and receive updates on their various institutions. He prevents the Treasury Lord from knowing anything about the army and vice versa. In this way he empowers each lord, but their control over one facet of the kingdom is balanced by their complete ignorance of the other. Knowledge is siloed and only the king has a general understanding of the inter-workings of the kingdom. The king can play one lord off another, increase hostility and suspicion between the two and therefore prevent their collusion.

We live in an era of enormous specialization. Only bakers know about bread, only doctors know about physiology, and only web designers know about web sites. Each group guards their knowledge and expertise closely, keeping outsiders in the dark, creating special certification processes and institutionalizing their “professions.” While all this can help the individuals rest assured that they really are a baker, a physician, or a web designer, it also serves to generally disempower each of them. The web designer pays the doctor to tell him to take aspirin, the doctor pays the baker for his daily bread, and the baker pays the web designer to help her start a blog. Each is incapable of basic tasks in the world, relying heavily on one another. None can effectively challenge the knowledge of the other, much less take over the world!

The generalist, on the other hand, knows enough about a variety of things that he or she can effectively speculate. The generalist knows enough about the stomach, yeast, and WordPress to speculate that he has dispepsia, bake a sourdough to remedy it and then blog about it. The speculator knows enough about things to call bullshit. The speculator can take over the world. But does he or she really want to?

The Legend of Althea: Part I – Birth and Youth

Althea the dog was born in circumstances not entirely uncommon to her kind. She was pupped in a litter of 7, neither the first nor the last, neither the strongest nor the frailest. Her mother, a Short-Haired German Pointer, had felt the fleeting pangs of love with a Calhoun Hound in the tall grasses of the Alabama countryside. The two had met on a bird hunt jointly undertaken by their masters. And as special and unique as that brief meeting was, it was also not uncommon in those parts. Bird hunters often encouraged the interbreeding of their less-special charges. Those hunters who are un-scientific by disposition simply let nature run its lusty course, fingers crossed for some surprise, new genetic expression that might improve the abilities of the dogs in their pack.

As a result of her random cross-parenting, Althea was born with a unique set of folds in the edges of the flops of her ears. These folds – which resemble the delicate flaps of a bifurcated, furry flower petal, or the acute waves of cartilage on an exotic sea creature – were passed over without much reflection by the dilligent and accepting nose of her doting mother. The special folds didn’t seem to affect her hearing in any noticeable way, nor were large enough to draw visual attention. They remained a mild peculiarity, easily escaping the notice of dogs and men alike.

Althea and her litter were raised amongst the host of aunts, uncles, cousins and close friends that made up the bulk of their master’s bird-hunting stock. The litter grew strong, playing in the short grass of the dog pen on the masters modest plot outside of Birmingham. Althea’s youth was happy and carefree. She was well fed and did not want for love, playmates or the guidance of her elders.

On weekends, the adult dogs piled into the master’s truck and were carted out through the suburbs, out into the flat country of bayou and oak hammock. Once on the open fields, the breed-instinct took over and the dogs stalked and flushed birds from the tall grass. Most of the birds flew, startled, for a few hundred yards before settling again in a quiet spot. But some ended up with shot in their backsides, returning wounded or dead to the high grass where they were collected for feasting. As puppies, Althea and her litter-mates were left behind on such excursions; they were still too young to be effective hunters, their puppy-legs still too short to keep up with the vigorous strides and leaping runs of their master and pack.

But the day came when the master visited the dog pen, strutting through the excited mileu. The pack crowded around his legs, eager for a chance to run and hunt, eager for the aprroval of their uncontested leader. He patted the heads of his favorite trusties as he marched straight to Althea and her brood. There he inspected the puppies, lifting each by their scruff, prying open their mouths as they licked his fingers, inspecting the length and quality of their teeth, pushing apart the knuckles of their feet to affirm the integrety of their webbing. He was satisfied. And that weekend, Althea and her litter-mates were allowed to follow their elders, leaping bravely into the high bed of the red pick-up, toppling and tumbling excitedly as they bounced over dirt roads to the hunting fields.

Dogs and Babies – a comparison chart

When trying to decide whether to get a dog or have a baby, you (and your loved one, if you have one) will want to thoroughly consider the various pros and cons of each. The handy comparison chart below can help you identify which is right for you. Keep in mind that your own image of yourself can play a large part in the decision making process. Do you want others to see you as a “dog person”, or a “baby person”? There is no right, and no wrong answer; but still…you must choose.

  Baby Dog
You are responsible for it’s actions. X X
You are responsible for it’s well being. X X
You clean up it’s poop. X X
You feed it. X X
It puts eveything in it’s mouth. X X
It eats garbage on the street. X X
You bathe it. X  
It licks your face.   X
You will do anything for it. X  
It will do anything (it can) for you.   X
If it ran from you, you could catch it. X
If it wanted to, it could rip off your face.   X
In a battle between a baby and a dog, it would win. X