Döbrentei tér 9
Snugly nestled in the armpit of the Erzsebet bridge and a cliff wall, sitting on a highway, and protected by the righteous statue of Gellért and his effluent waterfall, the Rudas Gyógyfürdö Turkish bath don’t look like much. It’s a squat, one story, concrete job, vaguely under construction (apparently since 2003). But once inside you can occupy the heritage of the victorious ottoman conqueror at leisure.
After paying the girl in the cage about $10, you are given a digital “wristwatch” which serves as your accountant and locker key. Holding it against a series of turnstiles you finally make it into the locker room. At the locker room entry you take a loin cloth which you will fasten around your waist so that no one knows you’re circumcised. Within the locker room you hold your “wristwatch” against something that looks like a digital thermostat mounted on the wall. After a few seconds the thermostat displays you changing-room number which then opens sesame upon another wristwatch application. Your changing room is where you change and where your things are stored until you’re ready the leave.
Following signs you enter the bath proper. The main works are a large circular pool with smaller pools in the corners of the room. The central pool is warm and pleasant and the entire room stinks of the sulfur thrown up by the naturally thermal waters. At 1:30 is the hottest of the hot pools which grow colder as you go counter-clockwise. The hottest is hot, and the coldest is cold. The main pool, however, is second-hottest. Think about that.
At 3:00 are two doorways, the first leads to a dry sauna and the second to a steam sauna. Each sauna is preceded by a cold water bucket and shower stall. Each sauna is actually a series of chambers, which increase in heat as you proceed. The hottest is hot, but not as hot as those saunas in more northern climes.
The Rudas Gyógyfürdö bath is filled with old, fat, hairless, uncircumcised, square-headed Hungarian men (or women, depending on the day of the week). I only spotted one perv and he looked German. The atmosphere is relaxed and convivial, with men chatting quietly under the gurgle of thermal waters.
At 12:00 another doorway leads to a massage room, the cold plunge (cold) and the exit. At the exit you discard your loincloth into a bucket and take a clean sheet. The sheet is used as a wrap as you walk and a cover for the adjustable beds in the nap room. You deposit your used sheet at the locker room exit, and your wristwatch at the final turnstile.
Another side of the facility offers a lap pool which smelled chlorinated. There is also a juice bar and gift shop in the lobby. All in all Rudas Gyógyfürdö is good banya. It’s relaxing, casual, therapeutic and hot enough. The facilities are relatively clean and well maintained and the staff friendly. I recommend.
A note on Momotaro Ramen
Széchenyi u. 16
What do you expect the ramen in Budapest to be like? Well, you’re right. While the celery salad was interesting and there were a range Chinese dishes on the menu, if it’s a meat soup with noodles you’re craving stick with the goulash on every corner. It’s delicious.






